zmm^^^^^^^ 




->!'. 



STONE'S 



•^ 



NEAY SUPERLATIVE 



TROUSER SYSTEM 



BASED UPON A SCIENTIFIC, 
SURE AND SIMPLE METHOD 



BY 

CHAS. J. STONE 

CHICAGO, ILL. 



', k PUBLISHED BY 

'^ THE CHAS. J. STONE CO. CUTTING SCHOOL 

CHICAGO, ILL. 

V_ 



THE LIBRARY OF 

CONGRESS, 
Two C0HE8 Received 

APR, 15 1901 

Copyright entry 

clAss <^XXc. n». 
72-2.-2- 

COPY B. 



Copyright, igoi, 
By the Chas. ] Stone Co. Cutting School. 



/ /-,' 



)' 



\) 



DEDICATION 

To all cutters who desire to tread the up- 
ward path in sartorial research and 
to acquire a wider and higher edu- 
cation in this Art, I dedicate this 
book; thanking the profession for 
their appreciation of my first edition 
on Trouser Cutting. 



CONTENTS. 



Preface, 

Introductory, 

How to Take the Measure, 

Proportions of Height, 

Proportions of Width, 

Theorizing, 

Funilainental Principles, 

Fundamental Draft, 

Proportional Trousers, 

Full Dress Trousers, 

Peg Tops, 

Spring Bottoms, 

Trousers for Corpulent Figure, 

it it . : t i 

r^owlegs. Theorizing, 



7 Corpulent and Bowlegs, Method A, 

8 " " " " B, 

9 " " " " C, 
lo-i I Variations, 

i2~i3 Bicycle Pants, 

14-15 Riding Breeches, 

16-17 I-eggins, 

iS-tg Leggins and Overgaiters, 

20-21 Broadfalls, . . 

22-2,5 Pointers about Making, 

24-25 Superlative Works on Cutting, The, 

26-27 Chas. J. Stone Co. Cutting School, The, 

2S-29 Stone's Reliable Block Patterns, 

,10-51 Tailors' Squares and Measures, 

,52-5,5 Cutters' and Tailors' Sliears. 

,54-35 I'ractical Cutter and Tailor, The, 





36 3 7 




38-39 




40-41 


42, 43. 


44- 45 


46, 47- 


48, 49 


50- 5'- 


52, 53 




54 




55-56 




57 




57 




58 




59 




60 




61 




62 




63 



PREFACE. 



Books rule the world to a very considerable extent, 
and with an advancing civilization there must be an in- 
crease of books and a broader sweep of power proceed- 
ing therefrom, for they exert a mighty influence in the 
way of educating the people. It is as an educator to 
the progressive cutter that I present this book on 
Trouser Cutting, on this the beginning of the Twentieth 
Century. 

The basis upon which the entire foundation of this 
work is built is by proportions of the human form, and 
a careful, earnest, thorough study will reward you with 
results even beyond your most sanguine expectations. 

Sir Francis Bacon said, "Reading raaketh a full 
man, conference a ready man, and writing an exact 
man." Read this book from preface to the last page, 
not beginning in the middle, but read and digest the 
contents of each page in succession; then confer with 
successful cutters; after this reading and conference 
write on the tablets of your memory the information 
gained thereby. 

I have laid down the fundamental principles, en- 
deavoring to illustrate and explain the diagrams in the 
most accurate and lucid manner, and it now remains 
with the progressive cutter to utilize the instruction 

for liis advancement. 

The Author. 



USTTRODUCTORY. 



Tnere has perhaps not been as much progress made 
in trousers cutting as there has in coat and vest cutting, 
for the simple reason that cutters pay less attention to 
this most important problem. Every cutter has his 
specialty, but we find very few specialists on trouser 
cutting. Why is this? It is because cutters very sel- 
dom, if ever, study tlie shape of the lower half of their 
client, and whenever the cutter turns out a good fitting 
pair of trousers it is more by luck than by actual ex- 
perience. In order to enable us to properly cut and 
make all kinds of garments for all shapes and forms it 
becomes necessary for us to study the form that we are 
called on to cut a covering for, and with tliis view in 
mind the author of this work on trouser cutting has 
started from the very beginning by taking the human 
form and dividing it into sections so as to give us some 
basis to work from. There must be and is a reason why 
for everything we do when we cut a pair of trousers, 
and a system whicli lias not for its foundation the 
anatomical divisions of the human form certainly has 
not got any foundation to build on, and in order to be- 
come a successful cutter it becomes necessary to first 
study the proportions of the human form. Learn first 
how to cut a proportionate pattern for a proportionate 
form, then learn how to cut a disproportionate pattern 
for a disproportionate form. Always put in the foun- 
dation first before you begin to build. This work 
starts out with the foundation and proportions, followed 



by all kinds of disproportions, and in order to be able 
to fully understand the working of the system the cut- 
ter must start at the very beginning, read and study 
carefully every diagram; take )our time and study them 
carefully and you will be rewarded by being able to cut 
a good fitting and well balanced pair of trousers, pro- 
viding you follow the instructions, and whenever you 
fail to do so, look for the reason why. 

You may have been careless in taking the measures. 
You must be observing; note your customer's attitude; 
note his shape. If he has a normal, flat, or prominent 
seat, small or large thighs, large or small calves, straight 
or bowlegs, or perhaps knock-kneed; does he toe out or 
in ? These are the peculiarities that must be observed 
and the trousers must be cut and made up accordingly, 
in order to produce satisfactory results. The cutter 
must be painstaking if he wants to produce satisfactory 
garments. A system of cutting is somewhat like a 
musical instrument, it requires a good operator in order 
to bring anything out of it; and it matters not how good 
the system is, if the cutter is not willing to educate him- 
self how to use the system he will get but poor results, 
the same as a poor player will produce only poor music 
out of a good musical instrument. But with a good 
practical cutter in possession of a good fundamental 
system of cutting the very best of results may be ob- 
tained. Here I lay before you the fundamentals, study 
them well and you will be benefited. 



STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE TROUSER SYSTEM. 



HOW TO TAKE THE MEASURES. 



In measuring for trousers 1 first take the inseani, 
then the rise from the crotch up to the waist. This 
measure is best taken by placing an ordinary square 
between the legs, measure up to the waist and deduct 
the width of the short arm of square, which is usually 
ij^ inches. The outside length from the waist to the 
floor may be taken and used in drafting, and the rise 
will then be the difference between the outside and 
inside length. 

The waist measure is taken medium, the hip 
measure is taken quite snug, as an allowance of i J2 
inches is added to half of the seat measure in drafting, 
which will give one inch extra for ease, the thigh 
measure is taken medium close and should be taken 



as high up as possible; the knee and bottom measures 
are, of course, as to prevailing style. 

.•\fter the measures are taken, be sure to note the shape 
of the legs as well as of the seat and hips, and make 
a note of these peculiarities. If the client has bowlegs 
have him place his two feet close together so that the 
toes touch; in this position he can not, if he is bow- 
legged, close the legs at the knee; to measure for the 
bow, stick your one, two or three fingers between the 
knees and determine how much space there is between 
the knees and mark down the amount of the bow; be 
sure and note down all the irregularities in the shape, 
and it will greatly assist you in producing a pattern 
that will fit. 



lO 



STONES NEW SUPERLATIVE TROUSER SYSTEM. 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE L 



PROPORTIONS OF THE HUMAN FORM. 



THE DIVISION OF HEIGHT. 

The theory advanced by our most noted SLulptors, 
painters, artists and professors of anthroiiology regard- 
ing the height of the human body and its proper divis- 
ion, is that the entire height, from the crown of the 
head to the end of the big toe, contains ei;^tit fares or 
heads, and on this theory they divide the human form 
into eight faces or heads. The distance from the bot- 
tom of the heel to the end of the toe is estimated to be 
j'o of the entire height. They also claim that the proper 
way to measure for height is to have the subject in a 
lying-down position with feet stretched out, or if in a 
standing position it must be on tip toe. This theory is 
undoubtedly correct if we want to find the correct 
length of the face, but to tailors this is of less impor- 
tance. What we want is the division of the parts of 
the body that we are required to cover, and it matters 
not if the face of our client is one-sixteenth of an inch 
longer or shorter, and while the distance from the 
crown of the head to bottom of heel <loes not contain 
eight times the length of the face, yet I find in my 
practice that this distance can be correctly divided into 
eight parts and each of these parts subdivided into 
eighths, giving us 64 parts or units for height, and on 
this theory the accompanying diagram of the human 
figure is divided: 

From the crown of the head to the pelvis bone, line 
F V, where the legs join the trunk of the body, is half 
of the entire height. 



From F to J is yi the distance from F to M, or ^ 
of entire height, and V to X is 's of entire height. 

V to C is e", of entire height. This distance will 
vary according to flesh development. In a lean man it 
will be a little less and in a fleshy man more. The in- 
seam will therefore be for a lean man not quite 8*4 less 
than yi of height, and for a fleshy man as much as cu 
less than ji of height. For a cutter to fully understand 
this variation, it is necessary for him to understand the 
laws of form growth. 

The rise of the waist is ^ and «V of height, and to 
this may be added '2 inch, or according to the fancy 
of the wearer. 

The breast circumference of the body I divide into 
6 parts, six for the front, six for the back, and two for 
each side. This I fully explain in my Proportions on 
Coat Cutting. 

C to D is j,2 seat on division, and D to E is jg 



seat. 



A is halfway between C and E. This I square up 
to S, and this line is the center of the thigh. 

Now, if we locate the center of the foot or ankle, it 
will be found that point A is not on a straight line with 
A S, therefore it is necessary to swing in the center line 
at the foot. The reader will ask how much? This 
depends on the size of the trouser legs. If they be 
small, the center must be swung in more, and if wide, 
less. For the present style of trousers, i8)4 to 19 knee 
and i6j^2 to 17 bottom, I swing the center line in at 
bottom ('fi of the seat measure, as will be more fully 
explained in the regular drafts. 



STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE TROUSER SYSTEM. 



n 



PLATE I. 




(^ (S)(ft) (•)(«) (s) (S)(S)(S) 
J 2 3 ^ S C 7 3 9 



12 STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE TROUSER SYSTEM. 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE IL 



THE DIVISION OF WIDTH. the distance from B to 5, }^ and ^ seat, which equals 

ys seat on division. 

In <iiafting I use half of seat measure. This I divide 5 to Z is ^g seat on division. 

into eighths. Perpendicular line W, it will be noted, is on a plumb 

From A to B is four-eighths, which equals J^, and from line from the shoulder-blade. The seat will extend 

B to C is one-eighth. over this line, and the first impression that the reader 

B ti 7 is }i seat, which locates the beginning of the will get by looking at the diagram undoubtedly will be 

rounding of the lower portion of the trunk of the that the seat line of the trousers should run with the 

body. shape nf the body; but on second thought he undoubt- 

Tl.e center of the thigh D is halfway between A ediy will understand that when the backpart is turned 

and C. around, it will come in a different position. 

Square up from D to E. U to V is i'„ waist and V to Y is ye of the entire 

Tiie center line at F should be swung in ,'« of seat, height ,'3 inches in all sizes may be used successfully). 

then divide the forepart equally on both sides of the If the indentation could be successfully taken and ap- 

center. plied, W to V should then be yi inch more than VV to 

(In drafting, the forepart is reversed from what it X. i to S is i;( inches for make-up and seams. 
appears in this diagram, which is left-handed, so as to The width of the legs is equally divided on both 

show the shape of the stride and its divisions. ) sides of the center line. The seat should measure yi 

The forepart is cut out and laid on backpart so that seat and i'; inches added for seams. The waist yi of 

the center lines meet. i to 5 is four eighths, the same waist measure antl i inch for seams, and if a V is taken 

as the forepart. 5 to 6 is '3, and 6 to C is ,'2, making out add 1 '_■ inches for seams. 



STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE TROUSER SYSTEM. 



13 



PLATE II. 




14 STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE TROUSER SYSTEM. 



EXPLANATION OF PLATES III AND IV. 



THEORIZING. another and joined on to the body as at line A B. If 
the legs were two cylinders of equal size, top and bot- 

If we want to study the practical as well as the sys- torn as indicated by the circles A E B and G V, we 
tematical methods of cutting trousers, we must begin could then make the trouser legs the same size at top 
with the proportions of the human form; we must first and bottom. A center line drawn from M through F 
take into consideration the shape and form of that part J to G would then be the correct center and we would 
of the human body that we are about to cut a covering have no such thing as a long inseam, but as the size of 
for, and to make this more plain I have drawn the the ankle is not more than one-third the size of the 
accompanying (iiagrams which I now present to our thigh, and it is customary to cut the trousers i6J^ 
readers. (See Plate III.) The two circles A E B, bottom to about 24 thigh, we find that the size of the 
represent the legs set on to the body, and the circumfer- lower end of the trouser leg is only about two-thirds of 
ence around these two circles is tlie size of the trunk of the size of the upper end, or if we take the diameter of 
the body. A B is the two sides, D is the front and C both ends we find it to be a difference of 2}^ inches, 
the back. The buttocks will project out ,'j of the seat. Now the question arises, where shall vve reduce this 
so the back fork must be that much more than the extra size? Of course, if our client will keep his feet 
front fork; take the seat measure and divide it by four, close together it is quite plain that the center line 
]/l or as we use it in drafting, ^4 seat, from B to D. should be swung in from G to H, the 2'^ inches differ- 
Now if we swing in D it will strike as at L; we then ence between the two diameters, but if our subject 
will need a little less than 's seat to bring the front stands apart 5 incnes with his feet there is no need of 
fork to point E. swinging in the center line, and we can divide the fore- 

In practice I use for the forepart 'i and 'a seat. part equally on both sides of the center line E on 

The extra amount gained as from K to L is needed for Plate IV, as per dotted lines, but if the man stands 

seams and ease. There is l^ of the seat measure from closer together with his feet it will be necessary to 

B to D, and .)^ of thigh from B to K anti K to E 38 move or swing in the center line as from E to G on the 

thigh. One-half of the thigh will be a little less than average of h seat for a normal figure. 
i/% of the seat, but whatever extra size is gained in the If we square down from D to E and I to S we have 

stride by using the seat measure is needed for seams the two centers of the legs, but in an open position, so 

and ease. Five-eighths of half of the seat measure will if the trousers are cut using this line for center of the 

reach from B around the back to P, and from P to E legs, the inseams will be too long, as the legs are cut 

is I'a seat. This is the real foundation for our division too open. Therefore I swing in the center line f's of 

in drafting. the seat as frbm line E to G, and use lines D, G and 

The legs are like two cylinders laid alongside one I, T for center of legs. 



STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE TROUSER SYSTEM. 



15 



PLATE in. 



PLATE IV. 





i6 



STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE TRUUSER SYSTEM. 



THEORIZING. 



DIAGRAM A. 

Diagram A represents the two legs laid close to- 
gether at the thighs, point A. If we take the whole 
circumference measure of the seal it will, of course, 
take in the two thighs, and if the two legs are set close 
together onto the trunk of the body the seat measure 
will give the proper size for the thighs. If we take one- 
fourth of the seat measure (half on division) it will 
reach as from C through B to H. If we sweep down 
from C to L we have the width of the forepart as from 
L to H. If we sweep from H to G the measure B to H 
will reach to G, and it will require another }i seat from 
G to A. 

The circumference around these two legs simply 
illustrates the two thighs. If these two thighs are set onto 
the body, as per illustration in Diagram B, it wouUi 
seem at first glance that the application of the seat 
measure would be too large for the thighs, but such is 
not the case, for although the seat measure is used 
to get the size of the legs, yet it requires I'a of seat 
extra in the back stride, as from K to A, in order to 
give the proper amount of goods around the thighs. 
One-half of seat measure, i8 inches, and ji of i8, wliich 
is 6 inches, added to half of seat measure, tS, makes the 
thigh 24 inches; this includes allowance for seams and 
ease. Theactual size of the thigh in a normal figure is ^i 
of the seat measure, which, for a 36 seat, will be 22^ 
inches; for a 40 seat, 25 inches, and a 46 seat, 2834^ 
inches. These proportions hold good only in young 
men and athletes. The middle aged as well as old men 
who do not get any exercise to strengthen the muscular 
development of the thighs, fall below this standard, 
and it is here where the cutter will have to use an extra 
thigh measure, and in drafting compromise and use the 
difference of the actual and the proportionate thigh. 
The small thigh and flat seated figure perhaps is the 
hardest of all forms to cut trousers for. Diagram ( illus- 
trates this form where the two legs are set apart onto 
the body, leaving a space of from one to two inches 
between the two legs, as from i to 2. In this form the 
thighs must be reduced on the inside so as to give a 
curve on both the front and backpart, as from T to 



S and V to S; be sure to reduce the thigh on the in- 
side with a short, sharp curve, if you want the inseam 

K 




DIAGRAM A. 

to hang straight. Some cutters imagine that by cutting 
a straight inseam for all shapes the trouser leg will hang 




UIAQRAJVI B. 

staight, but this is an illusion, and sooner or later the 
cutter will discover that in this particular case the 




U T 
DIAGRAM C. 



inseam must have a short curve just below the crotch in 
order to get the trouser up and set smoothly in the fork 
and hang straight in the legs. 



STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE TROUSER SYS lEM. 



•7 



PLATE VI. 



TO DRAFT THE FOREPART FROM 
PROPORTIONS. 

These are the fundamental principles on which this 
system is based, "the proportions of the human form," 
and by first studying the anatomical divisions of the 
form that we have to cut a covering for, we will have a 
better knowledge of the system employed in drafting. 
The cutter will know the whys and wherefores of all 
the different divisions used in drafting. We must first 
know the proportions before we can find what the dis- 
proportions are. First lay the foundation, then build 
on it. 

Height, 5 feet 8 inches (68 inches). 
Seat, 36 I Waist, 31. 

A to G is ^ of height and G to C is ^ of height plus 

eV of height. 
M is halfway between G and C. 
G to I is JS^ of seat and i to I is 3'8 of seat, making the 

distance from G to I i or ^4 seat on division. 
W to J is ^ seat on division. 
Square up and down lines i, 2, 3 and I. 
L to J is ^ of seat and K is halfway between L and J. 
Square up from K through Y and T. 
As center line K is halfway between 2 and 3, it is ,\ 
seat from K to 3, so by swinging in center line 
,'s at bottom it will strike on line U 3. 
Apply knee measure one-half of knee each way from 
P, and bottom measure ^ inch less than one-half 
of bottom measure each way from U. 
Now, if one-half of the seat measure will cover %' 
of the thigh, one-third of this amount will be the correct 
quantity to cover the remaining j^ of thigh. So if in 
a 36 seat measure 18 inches will cover the three sides 
of thigh, Yi of 18, or 6 inches, is the correct amount 
for the front and back stride. Now, then if we use 
}i seat, which is 21^ inches, for the front fork, we 
must add the remainder for the back fork, as follows, 
^ and i\ seat, making the stride j^ and A seat, which 
is equal to ys seat on division. 




STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE TROUSER SYSTEM. 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE VIL 



TREORY IN PRACTICE. 



Outside seam, 


42^2 


Seat, 


Inseam, 


32 


Knee, 


Waist, 


36 


Bottom, 



The accompanying draft is for a normal figure. 
The draft is made from the following measurements; 

40 
20 
17 

TO DRAFT. 

Square out and down from A. 

A to B is outside length. 

B to C is inside length. 

D is 2 inches above half the distance from R to C. 

C to L is }8 seat; square lines, L, C, D and B. 

C to E is )j seat and E to F is 's seat. 

G is halfway between C and F. 

C to 15, 15 to 16, and 16 to 17, is js seat, thus divid- 
ing the forepart into eighths of the seat measure. 

The center line G being in the center of points 16 and 
17, the distance from G to 17 is I'e seat, therefore 
the center line should be moved in I'e seat at 
bottom, as from 40 to point M. 

Point 40 is opposite point G. 

E to I is j4 inch for dress, and F to T and F to U is 
34 inch for dress. 



N to O and N to P is Ji; knee measure. 

M to Q and M to R is }^ inch less than }{ of the 
width of bottom. 

J to K is J2 waist (18 on halves). 

C to I is ya inch; lengthen outside at Q one-fourth the 
amount that forepart has been swung in from 
40 to M, and shape forepart as represented. 

THE BACKPART. 

Extend lines from H to X and V to W. 

H to X is 3 inches or g^ of entire height of the client. 

Point S is halfway between lines E and I. 

Draw seat line from S through V. 

¥ is halfway between X and W. 

Apply waist measure from J to K; place this at 7 and 
measure back to 10, half of waist and 2'^ inches 
for seams and ?•:; inch V taken out, as from 8 to 9. 

Apply seat measure from .S, line E to L, place this on 
seat line 31, which point is y^ seat up from S, 
and measure out to Y, half of seat measure and 
lyi inches for seams and ease. 

I to 2 is j'fi seat. 

F to Z is 15 seat 

P to 3 and O to 4 is ^ inch. 

Q to 5 and R to 6 \s i^ inch. 



STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE TROUSER SYSTEM. 



19 



PLATE VII. 




20 



STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE TROUSER SYSTEM. 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE VIII. 



PROPORTIONATE TROUSERS. 



Seat, 


39 


Knee, 


19 


Bottom, 


17 



The draft is produced from the following measure- 
ments: 

Outside length, 43 
Inside length, 32'; 
Waist, 35 

TO DRAFT. 

Square out and down from A. 

A to B is o\itside length and B to C is inside length. 

D is 2 inches abijve one-halt diitance from B to C. 

C to S is i& seat. 

Square lines S, C, B and D. 

C to E is 1:5 and E to F is 's seat. 

G is halfway between C and F. 

B to L is the same as from C to G. 

L to M is ,'b seat. 

Draw center line from M to O. 

Square up from G through H. 

E to K is y2 inch. 

F to I and F to J is ."'s inch. 



Square up lines K and E 

T to U is y'z waist. 

N to O and N to P is 3^ of knee measure. 

M to Q and M to R is ^ inch less than '4 of bottom 

measure. 
Shape forepart as represented by shaded portions. 

THE BACKPART. 

H to Y is 2 inches. 

Y to C is I'fi waist. 

Apply waist measure from T to U, place this at Z and 
measure back to 10 one-half of waist and 2/4.' 
inches and take out ^ inch V in the backpart as 
from 8 to 9. 

Z to 7 is I inch. 

S to X is I Yz inches. 

Draw a line from Z to point V. 

F to 6 is i's seat. 

O to I and P to Q is J4 inch. 

Q to 3 and R to 4 is 34 inch. 

Shape as represented. 



STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE TROUSER SYSTEM. 



21 



PLATE VIII. 




22 



STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE TROUSER SYSTEM. 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE IX. 



PROPORTIONATE TROUSERS. 



The accompanying diagram is produced from the 
following measurements: 

Outside, 42 Waist, 31 I Knee, 18 

Inside, 32 Seat, 36 j Bottom, 16 

To draft the forepart, commence by squaring lines .\, 

B, C and A Q. 
A to C is outside length. 
C to B is inside length. 

D is 2 inches above half the distance from B to C. 
B to N is Is seat. 
Square lines N, B, C and D. 

B to E is one-half seat on division and E to Fis }'s seat. 
G is halfway between B and F. Square up from G to K. 
C to H is the same as B to G. 

H to I is 1*6 of seat. Draw center line from G to I. 
1 to S and J to T is '4 knee measure. 



I to U and I to V is i<( inch less than ^ bottom measure. 
E to L is yi inch. Square up to Q. M is ^ seat up 

from L 
K to Q and K to R is ^ waist on division. 
F to P and F to O is 3/3 inch. 

THE BACKPART. 

Place forepart on paper and square across at knee, seat 

and bottom. 
T to 7 and S to 6 is ^^ inch. 
V to 9 and U to 8 is 3^ inch. 
N to 3 is lyi inches and 4 to 5 is ij{ inches. 
F to 10 is I'j seat. K to W is I's of waist. 
Square up from W to X, 33^ inches or 3 units of height. 
Apply waist measure from Q to R. Place this amount 

at X and measure back to Y, one-half of waist 

measure, add 2 inches and take out a yi inch V as 

from I to 2. 
Shape as represented. 



STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE TROUSER SYSTEM. 



23 




?^«^----- 



^-i^■- --(T8 



:4j---^c 



24 



STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE TROUSER SYSTEM. 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE X. 



FULL DRESS TROUSERS. 

The accompanying diagram is drafted from the fol- 
lowing measures: 



Outside, 


4^ 


Fhigh, 


21 


Inside, 


3-^ 


Knee, 


18 


Waist, 


31 


Bottom, 


16 


Seat, 


- 36 








TO DI 


■tAFT. 





Square out and down from A. 

A to B is outside length. 

B to C is inside length. 

D is 2 inches above one half the distance from B to C. 

C to T is ^8 seat. 

Square lines T, C, D and B. 

C to E is 3 3 and E to F is 's seat. 

G is halfway between C and F. 

Square up from G through H to Y. 

B to K is the same as C to G. 

K to L is i'g seat. 

Draw center line from L to G. 



E to 15 is y2 inch. 

F" to I and F to J is yg inch. 

Draw a line from U to F. 

H to R and H to S is ^ waist. 

R to 12 and S to 11 is i^^ inches. 

M to N and M to O is ^ knee measure. 

L to P and L to Q is J^ inch less than ]/^ of bottom. 

T to V is '2 inch. 

Shape forepart as represented by shaded portions. 

The backpart is drafted by extending line from forepart. 

H to Y is 2 '2 inches. 

Y to Z is i's waist. 

Apply waist measure from R to S, place this at Z and 
measure back to 10, one-half waist measure and 2 
inches for seams. One-half inch V to be taken out 
in the backpart as from S to 9. 

Z to 13 is I inch and 10 to 14 is 1J4 inches. 

T to X is 2 inches. 

F to 5 is ("j seat. 

N to 3 and O to 4 is J^ inch. 

P to I and Q to 2 is ^ inch. 

Sliape as represented. 



STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE TROUSER SYSTEM. 



25 




26 



STONE'S NEW SUPER!. ATI VE IRUUSER SYSTEM. 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE XI. 



PEG-TOP TROUSERS. 



FOR A PROPORTIONATE FIGURE. 



The accompanying diagram is that of a regular peg- 
top, produced from the following measurements: 



Outside, 


43 


Thigh, 


24 


Inside, 


32 


Knee, 


2I>^ 


Waist, 


- 36 


Bottom, 


161/2 


Seat, 


40 







TO DRAFT. 

Square out and down from A. 

A to B is outside length. 

B to C is inside length. 

D is 2 inches above one-half the distance from B to C. 

C to N is }i of seat. 

Square lines N, C, D and B. 

C to E is ^ and E to F is }i seat. 

E to 3 and E to 4 is .= 3 inch. 

G is half way between C and F. 

B 10 H is the same as C to G. 

Draw a line from H through C to L. 

H to 1 is I'g seat. 

E to V is !j inch. 

Square up lines E and V. 

It is not necessary to square djwn from E to U, as this 

only illustrates a section line. 
P to Q is 'A waist. 
J to Q is j^ knee {2}^ on fourths). 
I to S and I to T is 15^ on fourths, being yi inch less 

than one-half of actual size of bottom. 



N to I and C to 2 is J3 inch. 
Shape forepart as represented. 

BACKPART. 

S to 9 and T to S is yi inch. 

R to 7 and Q to 6 is Ij inch each. 

F to 5 is ,'2 seat. 

Point K is halfway between lines E and V and ys of 

seat up from E. 
M to X is I yi inches. 
L to M is 3 inches always. 
M to Y is A- waist. 
Draw a line from Y to K and hollow backpart J^ inch 

as at II. 
Sweep from O to Z by (). 
Apply waist measure from P to O. 
Place this at 11 and measure out to Z. 
One-half of waist measure and 2 inches for seams and 

}^ inch V to be taken out between 12 and 13. 
Note. — The outside of the trousers must be lengthened 

at bottom as at point T, y^ of the amount that they 

have been swung in, as from H to I. 
It will be noted that there is only }'2 inch added at the 

bottom for seams, but by measuring alongside the 

hollow edge of forepart of bottom we have gained 

the e.xtra ^.. inch needed. 
K to W is )8 seat. 
Apply seat measure from K to N, place this amount at 

W and measure out to X one-half of seat plus ly^ 

inches for seams and ease; to this may be added 

any amount desired for extra fullness over the hip. 



STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE TROUSER SYSTEM. 



27 



PLATE XI. 




STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE TROUSER SYSTEM. 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE XM. 



SPRING BOTTOM PANTS. 



The accompanying diagram is that of a regular old- 
fashioned spring bottom pants. 

The draft is made from the following measurements: 



Outside, 


43 


Knee, 


i6>^ 


Inside, 


33 


Calf, 


17 


Waist, 


34 


Ankle, 


15^^ 


Seat, 


39 


Bottom, 


22 


Thigh, 


22 







TO IlRAFT. 

Square out and down from A. 

A to B is outside, and B to C is inside length. 

D is 2 inches above one-half the distance from B to C. 

C to T is )s seat. 

Square lines T, C, D and B. 

C to E is y, and E to F is >§ seat 

F to I and F to J is -'s inch. 

E to P is i4 inch. 

G is J^ waist between C and F. 

B to K is is seat. 

Square from G through H to X and draw a line from 

G to L. 
L to O is 4 inches and M to N is 4^2 inches. 
Square across from O to N. 
Lengthen outside of forepart from 4 to 9, '4' distance 

from K to L. 
M to I and M to 2 is j{ knee (i6>^ on fourths). 
On spring bottom pants I always make the widths on 

the forepart at the bottom one inch less than at 

the knee. 
In this case L to 3 and L to 4 is i4;i inches on fourths. 



Shape forepart as represented by broken lines. 

Tne easiest way to obtain the correct width of trousers 
at knee and bottom is to add the amount desired 
for seams (in this case i inch) to the actual meas- 
ure and apply it in the following manner: 

Then place bottom of square at 1 and measure out to 
18 (17^ inches on halves). 

Place end of square at point 2 and measure out to 19 
(i7j^ on halves). 

Then place bottom of square at 3 and measure out to 
1 1 (23 on halves). 

Tiicu from 4 to 10 (23 on halves), 5 to 14 and 6 to 15 
is 161^ on halves. 

7 to 17 and 8 to 16 is 18 on halves. 

Owing to the e.\lra length gained by the spring at the 
bottom, the backpart is to be straightened Sg inch 
as from 10 to 13 and 11 to 12. 

F to U is i'2 seat, T to W is i 3^' inches. 

E to S is 38 seat and point S is halfway between lines 
U and P. 

19 to 29 is '4 inch less than i to J. 

H to X is 3 inches. 

X to Y is i\- waist. 

Hollow packpart '4 inch as at 27. 

18 to Z is j^ inch less than 2 to R. 

Apply waist measure from Q to R. 

Place this at 27 and measure out to Z. One-half waist 
and 2 I4' inches for seams and % inch V taken out 
between 2 1 and 22. 

S to V is ys seat. 

Apply seat measure from S to T, place this amount at 
V and measure out to W, one-half of the seat and 
lyi inches added for seams and ease. 



STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE TROUSER SYSTEM. 



29 



PLATE XII. 




3° 



STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE TROUSER SYSTEM. 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE XIIL 



TROUSERS FOR THE CORPULENT. 



The accompanying draft is for a corpulent figure 
who stands apart with his feet. 

The following measures are used in drafting: 



Outside, 


44 


Waist, 


46 


Knee, 


2 1 


Inside, 


3» 


Belly, 
Seat, 


47 
45 


Bottom, 


18 



HOW TO DRAFT THE FOREPART. 

Square line A, D and A, 6. 

A to D is outside length. 

D to B is inside length. 

C is 2 inches less than halfway from B to D. 

Square out B, C and D. 

B to I is i^ of seat (on division) or ^:l of entire seat 

measure. 
I to 5 is ^ of seat. 
I to 2 is ^2 inch. 
Square up lines i and 2. 
From 2 up to star at 8 is }i of seat. 
E center line is halfway between B and 5. 
D to F at bottom is the same as B to E. 
Draw center line from F througli E and up to G. 
Get width at knee and bottom going out half each way 

from center line, making leg at bottom from 8yi to 

9 inches wide. 
Apply waist measure by placing square on center line 

at G, going forward to 6 and back to 7, one fourth 

of waist measure, using divisions on the square; 

thus making the forepart measure from 6 to 7 one- 

founh of entire waist measure. 
10 is one-third the distance from 6 to 2. 
Square down by G and 6 to 10. 
Draw line from 10 to 2. 
Add to fork from 5 to 3 same amount that there is 

between line 2 at 8 to dotted line at 9. 



From 3 to 4 is .)^ inch. 

Draw a line from 9 to 3. 

Raise forepart from 6 to 11 half the distance that there 

is from 26 to 11. 
Reduce forepart at 12 whatever it has gained at 8. 
Shape as shown in diagram. 

BACKPART. 

Place forepart on paper or cloth. 

Extend lines at knee from 19 to 20. 

Extend lines at bottom from 17 to 18. 

Extend seat line at B and 21. 

Draw up center line from G to 22. 

G to 22 is one sixth of seat measure. 

From 22 to 23 is the same distance as from 26 to 11 on 
forepart, on diagram A. 

Draw line from halfway between 22 and 23 to star on 
forepart. 

The star always remaining halfway between lines i and 
2, and one-eighth of seat up from 2. 

From 4 to 2 I is one twelfth of seat. 

From 12 to 25 is 1 3/j^ inches and add extra the amount 
the forepart has been reduced at 12. 

Sweep from 7 to 24, by knee 13. 

Apply waist measure from 11 to 7, and 23 to 24, allow- 
ing one inch extra for seams, apply the measure 
over abdomen at 10, half of measure and one inch 
for seams. 

Apply seat measure on dotted line from 8 to 12, and 
across backpart on dotted line to 25, allowing one 
inch and a half over half of seat measure for 
seams and ease. 

Add at knee 19 and 20, same amount on both sides to 
make up the measure and one inch for seams. 

Add at bottom 17 and 18, same amount on both sides 
to make up the measure and one inch for seams. 

Shape as shown in diagram. 



STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE rROUSEK SYS lEI 



PLATE XIII. 




SrONES .NEW SUPERLATIVE TROUSER SYSTEM. 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE XIV. 



THE CORPULENT FIGURE. 



To draft from the following measures: 



Outside, 
Inside, 



44 Waist, 46 Knee, 20 

32 Seat, 45 Bottom, 18 

In preparing the accompanying draft and explana- 
tion I have endeavored to make it simple and compre- 
hensive, so that the average cutter can easily under- 
stand it at a glance. This mode of drafting differs 
slightly from the preceding draft of fat men's trousers; 
it will be observed that these are cut closer in the front 
at M, and this draft is swung in at bottom. 
Commence drafting by drawing line A B and square 

across from A to P. 
.\ to B is outside length, 44 inches. 
B to C is inside length, 32 inches. 
B to D is 2 inches more than half the distance from B 

to C. 
Square lines B, C and D. 
C to E is half seat (use division on square). 
K to (r is one-eighth seat. 
J is I alfway between C and G. 
B to K is the same as C to J. 
Draw a line from K through J to O. 
E to F is )4 inch. 
Square up lines E and F. 

I is 34 back from G and H is -y inch forward of G. 
K to L is i^B of seat. 
Draw a line from L to J. 
.Apply one-fourth of knee measure each way from U, 

making it from U to V and U to W one-fourth knee 



(5 inches). This is easily obtained by using the 
knee measure 20 on the fourth. 

Next apply the measure at bottom in tlie following 
manner: Bottom is 18, use division of one inch 
less and make it 17 on fourth from L to S and 
L to T. 

Apply waist measure in the following manner: One- 
fourth waist on division on square from O to P and 
one-fourth from O to Q, which will make the waist 
one-fourth of full measure from Q to P. P to R is 
the same as Z to P. 

Y is one-third the distance from P to F and M is }i of 
seat up from F. 

Square down from P to Y and draw a line from Y to M 
and shape as represented. 

THE BACKP.\RT. 

Extend construction lines on forepart and add an 
equal amount at knee and bottom to make up size, and 
allow one inch for seams as follows: 
S to 8 is ^ inch. T to 7 is -^ inch. 
VV to 5 is ^ inch and V to 6 is J/^ inch. 
N to 4 is T ^2 inches always. 
G to 9 is ,'s seat. 

to I is 3^2 inches. 

1 to 2 is I'fi waist. 

Draw a line from i to 2, and draw seat line from 2 to M. 
.•\pply waist measure from R to Q, place this amount at 

2 and measure out to 3, one-half of waist measure 

and one inch for seams. 
Shape as represented. 



STONE'S NEW SUPERLAflVE TROUSER SYSTEM. 



PLATE XIV. 




S 8 



34 STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE TROUSER SVSTEr 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE XV. 



THE NORMAL TROUSERS. 




Drafted from 
Outside, 42 
Inside, 32 


he following nieasi 
Waist, 32 
Seat, 37 

TO DRAFT. 


irenients: 
Knee, 
Bottom, 


1 6 34 



TROUSERS— NORMAL VERSUS BOW-LEGS S to T is '_■ waist; draw a line from K to O and shape 
THEORiziNt;. forepart as represented. 

Cut out pattern and lay forepart on paper. Square 
across at knee, bottom, seat and waist line. 

L to U is 2 inches. 

U to V is ,'e waist, and V to VV is i inch. 

J is halfway between lines E and I. 

Draw a line from J to V. 

2 to Z is i'n seat. 

N to 3 is }2 inch. 

Square out and'down from A. Q to 6 is i inch. 

A to B is outside length. R to 5 is i inch. 

B to C is inside length. O to 4 is >{. inch. 

D is 2 inches above half the distance between B and C. K to Y is i y< inches. 
Square lines B, C and D. Sweep out from T to X by 4. 

C to E is i< seat and E to T is >8 seat. Measure forepart from S to T. 

G is halfway between C and F. Place this at V and measure out to X, half of waist 

Square up from G to L. measure, and 2 inches added for V and seams. 

E to I is }i inch; square up lines E to I. This will produce a clean-fitting pair of trousers for 

B to H is the same as C to G. a normal figure. But supposing that our client is bow- 

Draw a line from G to H. legged? Is it then necessary to swing in center line at 

This line would be the center of the leg providing bottom? The normal man stands as close together 
our client will stand with his feet far enough apart, so with his feet as does the man with bow-legs, and as 
that there is the same distance between the two centers this is the case, why should the trousers be swung in 
of his feet that there is between the two centers of his more at the bottom for a bow-legged man than for a 
thighs; but a man will usually stand with feet closer client whose legs are straight? The bottom center 
together; the distance between the two centers of his should be swung in the same for all shapes j'e of seat, 
feet will be closer together, hence it is necessary to and if a man's legs are bowed— one, two or three inches 
swing the center line in at the bottom as from H to —the legs should bow out the same. Say, for instance, 
V ,'« seat, then draw a line from P to G, which line will that this man's legs are bowed out and that the opening 
now recur in the middle of the leg, and from this center between his knees is 21,2 inches, why should we not bow, 
line we divide the size of the leg. out the center line half of this amouni?- Move the 

M to O and M to N is '4 of the si/.e of the knee ( i8>i center as from M to Ai, i '4 inches, or half of the bow 
on fourths). and draw a new center line from G to Ai and from Ai 

P to Q and P to R is 1534 inches on fourths, which will to P, then apply the knee measure, using point Ai as 
ni^ake the width of the forepart at bottom }■. inch center; the forepart will now be as per lines with small 
less than half the size; draw lines from N to Q and circles and the backpart as per lines broken by the 
from O to R. larger circles. This is theoiizing and I only give this 

F to I and Fto 2 is .« inch. illustration as a theory. In practice I find that the 

Draw a line from i to N. legs must be swung in one-half of the bow at bottom 

I to J is 1,8 hip. Square across to K. in order to produce a long outside and short inseam. 



STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE TROUSER SYSTEM. 



35 



PLATE XV. 




36 



STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE TROUSER SYSTEM. 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE XVL 



CORPULENT AND BOW-LEGGED FIGURE. 



Method A. 
To draft from the following measures: 



Outside, 


44 


Waist, 


46 


Knee, 


20 


Inside, 


32 


Seat, 


45 


Bottom, 


18 



In preparing the accompanying draft and explana- 
tion I have endeavored to make it simple and compre- 
hensive, so that the average cutter can easily understand 
it at a glance. 

For bow-legs I swing in one inch extra from \V to X 
at bottom to nothing at the knee. In cutting the back 
part I take off from the regular draft y^ inch as at 5, 
and place this on to the inside of leg as at 6, the legs 
to be creased on line W. 

Commence drafting by drawing line A B and scjuare 

across from A to P. 
A to B is outside length, 44 inches. 
B to C is inside length, 32 inches. 
B to D is 2 inches more than half the distance from B 

to C. 
Square lines B, C and D. 
C to E is half seat (use division on square). 
E to G is '8 seat. 
J is half way between C and G. 
B to V is the same as C to |. 
Draw a line from V through J to O. 
E to F is ^2 inch. 
Square up lines E and F. 

I is 3 8 back from G and H is ?« inch forward of G. 
V to W is A of seat. 
Draw a line from W to J. 
W to X is I inch. 



Draw a line from S to X. 

Apply one-fourth of knee measure each way from S, 
making it from S to T and S to U one-fourth knee 
(5 inches). This is easily obtained by using the 
knee measure 20 on the fourth. 

Next apply the measure at bottom in the following 
manner: Bottom is 18; use division of one inch 
less and make it 17 on fourth from X to K and X 
to L. 

Apply waist measure in the following manner: One- 
fourth waist on division on square from O to P 
and one-fourth from O to Q, which will make the 
waist one-fourth of full measure from (^ to P. P 
to R is the same as Z to P. 

Y is one-third the distance from P to F, and M is 'a of 
seat up from F. 

Square down from P to Y and draw a line from Y to 
M and shape as represented. 

THE BACKPARr. 

Extend construction lines on forepart and add an 
equal amount at knee to make up size, and allow one 
inch for seams as follows; 
T to 7 is }'i inch and U to 8 is ^i inch 
K to 5 is }{; inch and L to G is lyi inches. 
N to 4 is 1^2 inches always. 
G to 9 is i\ seat. 
8 to 9 is }s inch less than U to H. 

to I is 3^2 inches. 

1 to 2 is )'g waist. 

Draw a line from i to 2, and draw seat line from 2 to M. 

Apply waist measure from R to Q, place this amount 
at 2, and measure out to 3 one-half of waist meas- 
ure and two inches for seams, and a yi inch V. 

Shape as represented. 



STONES iNEW SUPERLATIVE TROUSER SYSTEM. 



37 




6 tr -- 



~-Xw v._-^-J 



38 



STONES NEW SUPERLATIVE TRUUSER SYSTEM. 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE XVII. 



CORPULENT AND BOW-LEGGED FIGURE. 

Method B. 

Tlie accompanying draft of trousers for a corpulent 
as well as bow-legged client. 

The draft is produced from the following measures: 



Outside length, 


43 


Abdomen, 


50 


Knee, 


19J4 


Inside length. 


31 


Seat, 


46 


Bottom, 


18.:^ 


Waist, 


48 


Thigh, 

TO DRAFT 


27 


Bow, 


2 



Square out and down from A. 

A to D is outside length. 

D to B is inside length. 

B to I is }8 seat. 

C is 2 inches above half the distance from D to B. 

Square lines B, C, D and I. 

B to E is j5^ seat and E to G Jg seat. 

K is halfway between B and G. 

D to L is the same as B to K. 

Draw a line from L through K to R. 

L to M is ,'e seat. 

Draw a line from K to M. 

X to P and .\ to O is '^ knee measure. 

M to O and M to N is '4 inch less than '4 bottom 

measure. 
G to H and G to F is s^ inch. 
R to S and R to T is 's of entire waist measure (24 on 

fourths ). 
S to W is half the amount that there is from Y to S. 
U is 1.; of rise down from S. 

Square down from S to U and draw a line from U to E. 
I to I is half the distance from J to V. 
Raise forepart in front from S to W, half the distance 

that there is from Y to S. 
For bow legs it is customary to swing in the forepart 



half of the bow, which is one inch, as from M to 15, 
running out to nothing at X (the knee). This would 
make the forepart run as per dot and dash line from P 
to 14 and (J to 16. This is the old way of doing it, but 
while correct as far as theory goes, it is found that the 
outside seam usually comes too far forward and causes 
the center of leg to turn in, so to avoid this I leave the 
forepart the same for bow legs as I do for normal shapes, 
but swing the backpart twice the usual amount. This 
will give the same swing in, but will give the legs a 
straighter appearance and the stripes will run straight 
on the legs. 

THE HACKPART. 

R to Z is I's waist. 

Square up to 7. 

Z to 7 is 3 inches. 

Draw a line from one inch below 7 to '4 inch out from J. 

Apply waist measure from S to T, place this amount at 

7 and measure out to S, ^ of waist and i inch. 
.'\pply measure over abdomen from U to 4, place this 

amount at 5 and measure out to 6, half of the meas- 
ure and one inch for seams. 
Apply seat measure from J to i, place this at 2 and 

measure out to 3, half of seat measure and i '4 

inches for seams and ease. 
G to 10 is i\ seat. 
Apply thigh measure from F to 9, place this at 10 antl 

measure back to B, thigh measure, and add 3 ' _• 

inches for seams and ease. 
1' to 12 and Q to 1 1 is >i inch. 
N to 14 is I inch. 
Measure forepart from N to O, place this amount at 14 

and measure back to 13, the full size, and i incli 

added for seams. 
The forepart at N is lengthened j.{ inch for every 

inch that center line is swung in from L to M. 



STONES NEW SUPERLATIVE TROUSER SYSTEM. 



39 



PLATE XVII. 




40 



STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE TROUSER SYS I"EM. 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE XVIII. 



CORPULENT AND BOW-LEGGED FIGURE. 



Mkihod C. 



I finii in cutting trousers for bow-legs that by swing- 
ing the forepart in at the bottom the outside seam will 
come too far towards the center of the foot and the 
creases will, if in the middle of the forepart, strike an 
inch or more towards the inside of the knee; so I find 
it to work much better not to swing the forepart, but 
instead swing the back part twice the amount as per the 
accompanying draft, which is produced from the fol- 
lowing measures: 



Outside, 
Inseam, 



44 
32 



Waist, 


48 


Knee, 


'9 


Abdomen, 


5° 


Bottom, 


>7' 


Seat, 


46 







Space between the knees or bow of legs, 3 inches. 

TO UKAFT. 

Square out and down from A. 

A to B is outside length. 

B to C is inside length. 

D is 2 inches above halfway between B and C 

Square lines B, I) and C. 

C to E is 34 seat and E to F is ys sea^ 

G is halfway between C and F. 

B to H is the same as C to G. 

Draw center line from H through O to I,. 

E to I is }'i inch; square up lines E and I. 

I to J is '8 seat; square across J to Q. 

L to M and L to N is ^4 waist. 

Square down from M to O. 

M to O is ',? of distance from I to K. 

Draw a line from () 10 I, and whatever the distance 
then is from J to P, advance fork from F to T and 
reduce hip the same amount from Q to R. 



Draw a line from P to T. 

T to U is -\8 inch and T to F is :^h inch. 

M to V is the same as K to M. 

W to Y and W to X is ^4 knee measure. 

H to I and H to 2 is '4 inch less than '^ bottom. 

Shape forepart as represented. 

THE HACKPART. 

Extend lines out at seat, knee and bottom. 

L to 3 is 2 inches. 

j; to 4 is ,'s waist and 4 to 5 is i inch. 

7 is halfway between lines E and I. 

U to ID is tV, seat. 

Measure forepart from V to N; place this at 4 and 
measure out to 6, half of waist measure, and i inch 
for seams. 

Measure forepart from O to S; place this at 8 and 
measure out to 9, one half of abdomen measure, 
and add i inch. 

Measure forepart from 7 to R; place this at 19 and 
measure out to 20, lialf of the seat measure, and 
add I '/2 inches for seams and ease. 

H to 21 is I'ft seat, and 2 i to Z is half of the bow (i^ 
inches). 

Draw a new center line for llie back part from G to Z. 

II to 12 and 1 1 to 13 is J2 inch more than '/^ knee, and 
Z to 14 and 15 is one inch more than ^4' of bottom 
measure. 

Draw a line from 13 to 15, add ^ inch as at 17 and 
hollow out ?i inch as at 16, then draw a line from 
12 to 14 and hollow inseam 'j inch as at 18. 

The outside seam for bow legs must be lengthened as at 
2 and 15 one fourth of the amount that back part 
is swung in from H to Z, the crease line on fore- 
part will be on line W H, and on the back part on 
line iiZ. 



STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE TROUSER SYSTEM. 



41 



PLATE XVIII. 




42 



STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE TROUSER SYSTEM. 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE XIX. 



VARIATION IN TROUSERS. 



To more fully understand the variations in trouser 
cutting it is necessary to start at the normal point; so 
I will begin by giving the draft of a normal pair of 
trousers from the following measurements: 

19 



Outside, 


42 


Waist, 




34 


Knee, 


Inside, 


32 


Seat, 

TO 


DRAFT. 


39 


Bottom 



Square lines A B and A R. 

A to B is outside length. 

B to C is inside length. 

D is 2 inches less tlian halfway from B to C. 

.Square out C, D and B. 

C 10 E is !.T of seat on division. 

E to F is Jn of seat. 

E to G is 14 inch. 

1 is Ja inch from F. 

2 is -;s inch from F. 
.S(iuare up lines E and G. 

G to X is ^8 seat. Square out to T. 

H center line is halfway between C and F. 

B to I is the same as from C to H. 

J to K is ,'b scat. 

D:av line from K to H and square up from il to I. 

L ii> M and to N is 3-4 entire knee measure each way. 

K to O and K to P is ^4 inch less than '4 entire 

l)Otiom measure each way. 
R to O is _Jj waist on division. 
Shape and cut out forepart; lay on paper and mark 

out lines at seat, knee and bottom. 



I to 15 is 3 inches in all cases. 

15 to 17 is I inch, and 17 to iS is I'a waist in all cases; 

for normal trousers draw seat line from iS to X 

and shape from X to 4. 
1 to 4 is I'n seat for close fit and I's for an easy stride. 
N to 12 and M to 11 is Ji inch each way. 
K to 13 and K to 14 is i inch each way. 
T to 3 is i^ inches in all cases. 
Apply waist measure from R to Q. Place this at 18 

and apply measure back to 19, j!-^ waist and i^ 

inches, and take out a }2 inch V in back part. 
The distance from C to Z is is seat. 

This will complete the proportionate trousers. If 
we have a flat-seated figure to cut for, I recede from X 
to 9 and add from 3 to 7 same amount, and recede 
from 4 to 5 same amount. F"or a full seat I advance 
the seat line from X to 10 and 4 to 6 and take off same 
amount from 3 to 8, running out to nothing at Y and 
20 and 18 and 19. The theory on which I base these 
changes is that the waist in the back and side remains 
on the same points whether the seat is full or flat, 
hence the top of back part should not be disturbed. 
In a flat seated figure it is evident to all cutters that 
less goods is required from point S to X and H to 4; 
hence I recede from X to 9 from j^ to i inch, also 
recede from 4 to 5 >ame amount, and whatever I have 
receded from H to 9 I add to liip from 3 to 7. This 
will give a flat seat and a prominent liip, or, as cutters 
term it, a straight back part. If a large seat, I advance 
the seat from X to 10 and 4 to 6 and 3 lo 8, so as to 
get more goods in the seat from S to 10 and H to 6, 
and less from S to 8 and H to Z. 



STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE TROUSER SYSTEM. 



4i 



PLATE XIX. 




44 STONES NEW SUPERLATIVE TROUSER SYSTEM. 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE XX. 



LARGE HIPS, SMALL WAISTS, ETC. small waist. 

For a very small waist, nothing should be taken 

In cutting trousers for men with large hips the bow- off the waist in front at 6, diagram A, but all should 
legged men's method must be used, as the large hip will be reduced In the side, otherwise the regular normal 
take up extra length on the outside, and by so doing shape should be used for this form, as he is not con- 
will produce a long inside seam just below the fork, and sidered a large hip, but a small waisted man. 
will only fit smooth when customer stands apart with How to determine whether customer has large hips, 
his feet 6 to lo inches; this clearly shows that the legs small waist, or both: 

should be swung in at the bottom, for if tlie inside In order to fully explain this it will be necessary 

seams of trouser legs were ripped opened they would to first give the proportions of the human form. An 

not follow tl e legs, but hang off on the outside when average man will measure 5 feet 8 inches in height, 

standing with feet closed together. I have found his breast 36 inches, waist 32 and seat 37 inches; his 

the man with a flat seat the most difficult to fit in waist therefore is four inches less than the breast and 

trousers, he usually has a large hip and is very tender five inches less than the seat, and the seat being one 

over the abdomen; I theref >re allow one-half inch inch larger than the breast. 

extra cloth in front at 6, diagram A, for such men, mak- 36 breast, 32 waist and 38 seat is a large seat, 

ing the waist one inch wider than measure taken; 36 breast, 30 waist and 37 seat is a small waist. 

also have the suspender buttons set further back so 36 breast, 30 waist and 38 seat is a small waist and 

as not to cause a drag on the front over the abdomen. large seat. 

In cutting the backpart, add from i to 1)2 inches This comparison will illustrate what is meant by 

at 23, diagram B, running out to nothing at star and large seat and small waist, and if this method is fol- 

take off same amount at 24, tapering to nothing at lowed out, you will find that it will produce perfect 

25. This will give a straight seat and a large hip. fitting trousers in every respect. 



STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE TROUSER SYSTEM. 



45 



PLATE XX. 




46 . 



STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE TROUSER SYSTEM. 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE XXI. 



Inside 


length. 


32 


Seat, 


Rise, 




loyi 


Knee, 


Waist, 


- 


34 


Below the knee 






TO D 


RAFT. 



THE BICYCLE KNICKERS. 

In oriler to properly find the inside lengtli of leg 
correctly it is necessary to take the full length of the 
inseam the same as for ordinary trousers. Half of the 
inside length and three inches added will be a good 
average length of leg when a cuff is added and when 
the bottom is finished with a narrow band, four inches 
should be added to half the length of the leg measure. 
By using this method the cutter will have some guide 
to go by instead of using the length of leg to the knee, 
which, in most cases, is very uncertain, at least very 
few seem to be able to take this length correctly. The 
accompanying diagram is produced from the following 
measures; 

38 



14 



Square out and down from A. 

A to B is rise, io)_- inches. 

B to C is 16 inches, being half the length of leg. 

C to D is 3 inches. 

B to H is /;-; seat. 

Square lines H, B, C and D. 

B to E is y-i seat. 

E to F is }a seat. 

E to I is ]4 and F to J is ^^ inch. 

Square up lines E and I. 

The front of forepart at X is advanced and lowered }■, 
inch from the regular. 

X to Y is yj waist. 

G is halfway between B and F. 

Square up and down from G. 

Place corner of square at K and measure out to L, 17 
on fourths on the square, being one size less than 
knee measure. Then turn square around and 
measure from K to M, 15 on fourths, being three 
sizes less than knee. The forepart from L to M 
will measure one inch less than half of knee 
measure. 

P to Q is 14 on sixths, and P to R is two seams more 



than 1.3, making the width at bottom two seams 
more than }i of 14, which is the measure around 
the small of leg; the forepart must be lengthened 
>2 inch below point P. 
X to I and Y to 2 is i ^4 inches, for waistband, which 
must be left on. 

THE ISACKPARC. 

W to Z is 3 3-2 inches for all sizes. 

Measure forepart from X to Y. Place this at Z and 
measure out to 5 one-half of waist measure and 
add 2 '4 inches; .'4 inch is taken out in a V from 
3 to 4 and I'i inches allowed for seams. 

Draw a line from Z to 8. 

J to 13 is ('5. 

L to II is I '4 and M to 12 is 2)4 inches. 

Take out a V of one inch as from U to S and hollow it 
out a trifie just below K and taper up to 14, which 
is 1 1'2 inches above K. 

U S is 34 inch above point P. 

U to V is yi incli more than 'j of measure (^use idyi 
on thirds), and S to T is one inch more than ji of 
measure (use 18 on thirds). The bottom will now 
be i4'2. which is y, inch more than the actual 
measure. This extra amount of fullness is worked 
in on the forepart from R to (^. The foreparts 
are also fulled onto the back opposite the knee so 
as to produce a cup shape over the knee. 

B to 10 is 'j inch more than /■. seat, and H to 9 is y^ 
seat. 

The waistband from 5 to 6 is 1 3,4 and from Z to 7 is 
lyi inches. 

The opening from T to O is 2 inches, and should be 
closed with a button or glove fastener. 

The cuff is 4 inches wide and closes with 3 buttons and 
holes. 

Draw a line from 15 to 25 and square down from 15 to 
19 and mark off 4 inches; then square out from 19 
to 24, raise the top }^ inch at 21 and lower }^ 
inch at iS; raise same amount at 22 and lower 
at 23. 

15 to 16 and 19 to 20 is 14 inches. 

20 to 24 and 16 to 25 is I '4 inches from button stand. 



STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE TROUSER SYSTEM. 



47 



PLATE XXI. 



z J- 




48 



STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE TROUSER SYSTEM. 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE XXIL 



BICYCLE KNICKERS. 



WITH CUFK ATTACHEr). 



The Bicycle Knickers are best drafted from the 
regular measure of a pair of trousers with an additional 
measure taken around the knee. 

The draft is made from the following measures: 



Outside, 
Inseam, 
Waist, 
Seat, 



42 

32 

37 



Knee, ■ 12^4 

Small of leg below knee, 13 
Bottom of cuff over 

top of calf, 1333 



TO DRAFT. 



Square out and down from A. 

A to B is 10 inches, being the difference between the 
outside and inside lengths. 

B to C is (6 inches, half of the actual length of the leg. 

C to D is 2^ inches, which is the full length to below 
the knee with allowance for extra length needed 
for the bend of the knee when in a sitting posture. 

D to E is 3!/^ inches cuff. 

Square lines B, C, D and E. 

B to F is 3 J seat, and F to G is 's seat. 

H is half way between B and G. 

E to L is the same as B to H. 

Draw center line from L through K, J, H and I. 

F to M is J2 inch. S([uare up from M to 1. 

1 to N is yi inch, N to 2 is '_7 incli, and 3 to O is J-j 

inch, thus advancing and lowering the forepart in 
front and raising it in the side yi inch. 

2 to O is ^-i waist. 
B to S is J/^ inch. 

G to U and V is Jg inch. 



K to 1 1 and L to 14 is i inch. 

II to 12 is } i of small of knee ( 13 on thirds). 

14 to 13 is }} of the bottom measure (13^^ on thirds. ) 

J to Y is '6 knee measure and J to X '4 knee measure. 

to 5 and 2 to 4 is 1 3^ inches, waistbind. 
Shape forepart as represented. 

The backpart is represented by a broken line and 
drafted from the forepart. 

1 to P is 1 3-4 inches. 
P to Q is 1 3/( inches. 
U to W is I'j seat. 

S to T is I 34 inches. 

L to 16 and L to 15 is ^^ inch more than 'j of measure 
at bottom of cuff. 

K to 17 and K to 18 is yi inch more than ' _; of small 
of knee measure. 

J to 19 is yi inch more than '4, and J to 20 is 'j inch 
more than '3 knee measure. 

Apply waist measure from 2 to O. Place this at Q and 
measure back to R, half of waist measure plus 2^ 
inches for seams, and i inch V taken out in back- 
part between 7 and 8. Add waistband from R to 
6, and (^ to 9. 

The cuff closes with 4 buttons and buttonholes, and the 
opening on the outside extends up to point Z, 
whicli is I'j inches above point 11. A button 
sian<l is left on the backpart, as at point t6 and 17. 
The backpart should be stretched opposite point 
17, so as to make it fit smoothly in the bend of 
knee. There are six belt straps, one in each side 
seam and the others evenly spaced. The widths of 
the straps should be scant 'j inch, and the length 
of strap the width of the belt, usually i J'^ inches. 



STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE TROUSER SYSTEM. 



49 



PLATE XXII. 




50 



STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE TROUSER SYSTEM. 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE XXNI. 



SPLIT FALL RIDING BREECHES. 



The accompanying diagrams of Gentlemen's Riding 
Breeches are made with a narrow split fall which ex- 
tends down two-thirds of tlie rise of waist. The width 
of the fall is 2 inches wide at top of the waist-band and 
3 inches at the lower end of opening. There is a regu- 
lar fall bearer which fastens with two buttons in front 
under the split fall. The inside of the legs are rein- 
forced with the same cloth. The legs extend down to 
the ankle and leggins are to be worn with this particular 
style of breeches. 

The draft is produced from the following measures: 



Rise of waist, 9'_. 

Inseam, - 33 

Waist, - 34 

Seat, - - 38 



Knee, - - - ■ 1 7 

Small of leg below the knee, 13J 



Calf, 
Ankle, 



14 

9% 



TO DRAFT IHE FORKl'AKT FIGURE A. 

Square out and down from \. 

A to B is 9}4 inches rise (one-fourth of seat). 

B to C is 2 inches less than ]/2 of leg (14^^ inches). 

C to D is 3 inches. 

B to E is 2)'.2 inches less than inseam. 

Square lines B, C, D and E. 

B to G is !j seat and G to H is ';; seat. 

K is halfway between B and H. 

E to N is the same as B to K. 

Draw center line through K ;ind L; advance from G 

],'■> inch and square u\> to F. 
F to P is '2 incli. 
Lower waist in front ].-2 inch from 1' to i, and raise side 

at hip as from 2 to Q, y^ incli. 
P to Q is ' J waist. 
B to 3 is ?4 inch. 
H to I and H to J is 33 incli. 
Apply knee measure, '4' of knee each way from 1. to .S 

and I, to T, 17 on fourths. 
M to V> and .M to V is 14 on fourths and at point 1 1 is 

13 on fourths each way to 7 and 8. 
The first measure at M is jj inch more and the second 

at I 1 is J3 inch less than the small of knee. 
N to W and N to X is 19 on eighths each way from N, 

}^ of ankle measure each way. 
The width of the waist-band which in this case is added 

to the breeches is 13-2 inches. 
In order to get the outside seam to run towards the 

middle of leg in front reduce the forepart as from 

5 to 6, S to Y, U to Z, 8 to 1 1, 9 to 12 and W to N. 
The exact amount to be cut off from the forepart varies 



a little according to size of leg, as well as to style 
and fancy, and whatever is taken off from forepart 
must be added to the backpart. 
The reinforcement on inside of leg extends forward to- 
wards the knee and is cut so as to give the forepart 
a uniform tapering shape. The opening on outside 
begins at point Z. The buttons are spaced i]^ 
inches apart. 

THE IIACKPART — FIGURE 1!. 

Cut out forepart and place it on drafting pajier, the 
shaded portion being the forepart. 

Y to Z is I's seat. 
O to 15 is I2 inch. 
R to 26 is 3-4 inch. 
9 to 10 is 34 inch. 

X to I and X lo 2 is .'« inch. 
W is 2 inches up from line O P. 

V to 4 and Y to 5 is 'j inch. 

Apply knee measure 17 from O to 1', place this at 15 
and measure out to L, 1814 inches. 

.f^pply small of knee from R to Q. place this at 26, 
measure across to 2 and i to 14 half of small 
of knee and i J2 inches added, then apply small of 
knee from T to S, i 2 to 17 and 13, deducting the 
Y and add i '_• inches for seams 

The calf measure is next applied from 9 to 8 and 10 to 
II, to this add I'i inches. Next apply the ankle 
measure from U to V, place this at 6, measure 
back to 5 and 4 to 7 ami add i '4' inches for seams. 

The opening extends to Q and the first button is i^ 
inches down to S. By first locating the inside 
seain of backpart it is an easy matter to get the 
outside st-am, as whatever has been cut off from 
the fort-part will be added to the backpart, which 
the measures will call for. 

The backpart is cut 3-^ inch shorter from tlie knee line 
down. T!ie forepart is to be hehl in at points O 
and P, and the backpart stretched from 15 to 26 
and 16 to 13. A button stand is left on the out- 
side of the backpart as from 14 to 7. 

A to C is 2 inches and C to B is 4 inches. 

B to D is I % inches. 

Sweep out from F" to G by L. 

.Apply waist measure from E to F", place this at D and 
measure back to G, half of waist measure and 23.4 
inches for seams, and a V. From I to H is i inch. 

The width of waist-band is t Ji inches. 

The inside reinforcement extends from the crotch down 
to the calf of the leg as per points 23, 24 and 25. 



STONES NEW SUPERLATIVE TROUSER SYSTEM. 



5i 



PLATE XXin. 




FIG. A. 



FIG. B. 



52 



STONES NEW SUPERLATIVE TROUSER SYSTEM. 



EXPLANATION OF PLATE XXIV. 



RIDING BREECHES. 



The legs of the breeches extend down to the ankle, 
and riding boots are usually worn with this particular 
style of breeches. The inside of the legs are reinforced 
with tlie same cloth, and the lower part of legs are cut 
off and finished with a lighter weight material. 

The draft is produced from the following measures: 

Knee, - 1 7 

Small of leg below knee, 1332 
Calf, - 14 



Rise of 


waist, 


9]^ 


Inseam 




2>i 


Waist, 




34 


Seat, 




- 38 



Ankle, 



1 1,4 



TO DRAFT. 

Square out and down from \. 

A to B is 9J/ inches rise (one-fourth of seat measure). 

B to C is 2 inches less than y^ of leg ( i4;!-2 inches). 

C to D is 4 inches. 

B to F is 3J2 inches less than inseam, and F to E is 6 
inches. 

Square lines B, C, D and F. 

B to H is y'l seat and H to I is 's seat. 

J is halfway between B and I. 

F to O is the same as B to J. 

Draw center line tlirough J and O. 

H to 5 i-i yi inch, and I to 3 and I to 4 is -'s inch. 

Lower wjist in front '_> inch from G to 2 and raise side 
at hip as from \V to i, one-half inch. 

2 to I is yi waist. 

B to V is Jj' inch. 

Apply knee measure '4 of knee each way from K to U 
and K to T ( [7 on fourths). 

M to S and M ti) R is ]l small of knee each way ( 14 on 
fourths |. 

Tlie width of the waibt-band, which in this case is added 
to the breeches, is 1 '_• inches. 

In order to get the outside seam to run towards the 
middle of leg in front reduce the forepart as from 
T to 6, R to 7, and P to 8. 

The exact amount to be cutoff from the forepart varies 
a little according to size of leg, as well as to style 
and fancy, and whatever is taken off from forepart 
must be added to the backpart. 

The reinforcement on inside of leg extends forward to- 
wards knee and is cut so as to give the forepart a 
uniform tapering shape. The opening on outside 



begins at point 7. The buttons are spaced i^ 
inches apart. 

THE |:ACKPART — DIAGRAM. 

Cut out forepart and place it on drafting paper, the 

shaded portion being the forepart. 

3 to 23 is ,'2 seat. 

U to 22 is ■ J inch. 

S to 2 I is 3^ inch. 

Apply the knee measure, 17 inches, from U to 6, place 
this at 22 and measure out to 16, eighteen inches. 

Apply small of knee from S to 7, place this at 21, meas- 
ure across to 15, small of knee measure and i inch 
added. 

The calf measure is next applied from Q to 8 and 13 to 
14; to tliis add i inch. Next apply the ankle meas- 
ure from 30 to 29, place this at O, measure back 
to 28 and add i incli for seams. 

The opening extends to 7 and the first button is i J4 
inches down from 7. By first locating the inside 
seam of backpart it is an easy matter to get the 
outside seam, as whatever has been cut off from 
the forepart will be added to the backpart, which 
the measure will call for. 

The backpart is cut Y^ inch shorter from the knee line 
down The forepart is to be held in at points U 
and 6, and the backpart stretched from 15 to 16 
and 2 I to 22. A button stand is left on the outside 
of the backpart as at 14 and 15. 

L to 24 is 2 inches, anil 24 to X is 4 inches. 

X to Y is I J2 inches. 

Sweep out from W to 20 by C. 

Apply waist measure from 2 to i, place this at Y and 
measure back to 20, half of waist measure and 2^,2 
inches for seams and a V. 

25 to 26 is I inch. 

The width of waist-band is 1^2 inches; the inside rein- 
forcements extend from halfway between the 
crotch and knee and is stretched onto the forepart 
as indicated by dotted lines. 

Diagram C represents the reinforcements, and Diagram 
B represents the leg finished. 

The lower portions or continuation of the legs as from 
E to F, are in this case cut separate and from a 
lighter weight material so as to make this part more 
pliable, easier on tlie leg of the wearer. 



STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE TROUSER SYSTEM. 



PLATE XXIV. 




54 



STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE TROUSER SYSTEM. 



LEGaiisrs. 



Tne leggin is drafted by la)ing front and backpart to- 
gether as per dotted lines on leggins. 

There are seven buttonholes and buttons on the leggins. 

Draw a line on the center of backpart and make a 
seam on the leggin as per line B, I'], F. 

Cut out at 15 whatever the distance is between the fore- 
part and backpart at A. 

The width of the leggin to be }{, inch more than the 
leg A, B, C and D. 

E to H and E to G is 'j inch, and '2 inch is taken out 
at F. 

G to F is tlie same as B to I), and H to N is the same 
as B to C. 

A button stand is left f)n the outsi<le of both the leg 
and tlie leggin. For length of leggin apply tlie m 
side length of leg and adil one inch to regular 
measure. 

The leggins are fastened onto the leg by a buttonhole 
in the seam of the leggin )4 inch below B, and a 
small buttonhole tab is sewed on to the leggin so 
that it buttons onto the end button on the outside 
of the leg. 



The bottom of the leggins have strap sewed on to the 
leggin on the inside and buttoned or buckled onto 
the outside of the leggin. 










STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE TROUSER SYSTEM. 



55 



LEQQINS AND OVERQAITERS. 



DIAGRAM A. 



This diagram illustrates another style of leggins used 
with rilling breeches. There is only one seam in them, 
and that is in the back. Buttons and buttonholes are 
on the outside; the buttons must be spaced so as to cor- 
respond with buttons on the breeches above the leggin. 

HOW TO DRAFT. 

Fold paper double and square across from i to 2. 

The width of breeches is 17 to 18 inches at the knee; 
the leggins must therefore be the same width from i 
to 2. 

Square down from 2 to 4. 

2 to 4 is length of leggin, 15 inches, or whatever meas- 
ure calls for. 

Square across from 4 to 3. 

Shape leggin in back as shown in diagram. 

I to A is whatever forepart of breeches measures at 
knee. 

Square down from A to B. 

Round corners on both front and back as shown in dia- 
gram at B. 

Cut forepart y^ inch shorter in front, as shown in dia- 
gram at 3. 

Cut pattern out on the double, then open it out on the 
single, and cut apart on line A B, then add lyi 
inch button stand to back part on line A B. 

A buttonhole is made in the back seam at 5, and a 



button is put on the breeches in the back of leg at 

.T. 
A small leather strap with a buttonhole in is sewed on 

the inside of the leggin at 6, and placed so that it 

will fit on to one of the buttons on the leg of the 

breeches. This is all the fastening needed to hold 

the leggins up. 
A heel strap is sewed on the leggin at B; if a buckle is 

wanted, it should be placed on the outside. 




L.0IC. 



S6 



STONES NEW SUPERLATIVE TROUSI-R SYSTEM. 



LEQQINS AND OVERQAITERS. 



DIAGRAM B. 

The overgaiter is usually cut from 7 to 8 inchts 
high, although some of them are cut as high as tlie 
knee, and also leggins used by sportsmen are cut to 
come 4 to 5 inches above the knee. For ordinary pur- 
poses the short gaiter is used, and therefore we only 
give diagram of the short gaiter, and by using the same 
method the long gaiter can be produced. 

The following measures are used: 

Leg, 123-; 

Instep, IS}': 



Length, 
Ankle, 



10 

10 1-2 



Calf, 
Bottoms, 



i.^ 



HOW TO DRAFT. 



Draw straight line as from A to B. 

Square across each way from A. 

A to B is length of gaiter. 

B to C is 4V2 inches in all sizes. 

B to D is half way from B to C. 

Square lines at B, C and D; also square line at most 

prominent part of calf if cut that high. 
C to 2 is one quarter of ankle measure. 
Square line up from 2 to 8 and i. 

1 to 7 is half of measure around leg. 
8 to 9 is halfway around calf. 

2 to 6 is half of measure around ankle. 

2 to 3 is half of instep measure, holding point 2 and 

adding at point 3 to make up measure. 

3 to 4 is half of measure at bottom. 



Shape as shown in diagram; in cutting out pattern, add 
one seam all around. 

Tlie buttons should be placed in the middle on line A B; 
therefore, in onler to obtain this, add to both front 
and back part 3,4 inch from line A B. Heel straps 
are sewed on at the bottom at B, the same as on the 
leggins. 




STONE'S NEW SUPERLATIVE TROUSER SYSTEM. 



57 



BROADFALLS. 



They are cut the same as any other pants; the fall 
bearer to be added extra. 

Diagram B shjws the broadfall pants, the dotted 
line being the forepart, the solid lines showing the fall 
bearer. 

Five buttons is the usual amount in the fall, although 
some customers like four and some seven buttons. 

The fall bearer must be cut high enough to make up 
for the waist band. 

The opening in the side is usually made two-thirds 
of the rise of the waist, or from 7 to 8 inches. 

Top pockets are put in the fall bearer, as shown in 
diagram. If side pockets are wanted place them in side- 
seam, the same as on any other pants. 

Diagram C Illustrating the top of the back part. 

A waistband must be added to back part as from 
dotted lines up. 

Diagram D. This shows the old-style split fall; tl e 
width of the fall is one-sixth of waist measure, and the 
opening is finished with a band about seven-eighths of an 
inch wide, and the end turned in so as to make a poii.t 
as shown in diagram. A triangle of silk sewed out at 
the end is sometimes used. In other respects they are 
made like the broadfalls. 

A FEW POINTERS ABOUT MAKING. 

Trousers cut by this method will go together even; 
they are cut so as to distribute the goods equally on 
both sides of the center line, and whatever stretching 
or shrinking needed for shape must be done equally on 
both sides of the center line. It does not require an 
extra fine sewer in order to be a good pantaloon maker, 
but he should have some artistic skill in shaping the 
legs according to the shape of customer. The notches 
should go together even, the backpart should not be 
stretched on the inside from the knee up to the crotch, 
as this will shorten the back and produce wrinkles on 
the forepart when customer sits down. In joining the 
trousers up stretch the back seam about half uf an inch 
in the fork so as to have them easy in the stride. 

A strip of silicia cut on the bias and folded double 
should always be put under the turn up at the bottom, 
extending three-eighths of an inch above the turn up. 

Sew turn up on to silicia without catching hold of the 
outside goods and sew top of silicia on to the goods. 

This will make the trouser legs smooth at bottoms. A 
little soap should be put in under tlie turn up. Never use 
glue or rubber tissue in fine work, as it will spoil the turn 
up, and the trousers will wear out in a very short time. 

Care should be taken that the hang lining is put in 
easy. The lining in the inside button fly must be put 
in on the bias. In putting in top pockets care should 
be taken that the facing is cut exactly like the forepart, 
or the pockets will gap and appear to be twisted. 





THE SUPERLATIVE 
WORKS ON CUniNG 

IJV 

CHAS. J. STONE ^ 

. "A heart to conceive, a head to contrive, and a hand to execute." 

The art of cutting is too highly developed, it is too intricate, demands too exact a knowledge 
of the cutter to be mastered without deep study and long practice. In fact, a library has be- 
come indispensable to the modern cutter ; no matter how experienced a cutter may be, no 
matter how skillful or how learned in his art, he may attain a deeper knowledge and wider 
comprehension of cutting by the proper study of the best books. 

This is a want supplied by The Superlative Works on Cutting as by none others. The 
reason for this is that their author brings to his work a natural genius supplemented by long 
and varied experience, indefatigable study and thorough investigation. The fact that cutters 
realize the truth of this matter is attested by the large and constantly increasing sales of Mr. 
Stone's works. The complete list consists of : 

Stone's New Superlative Coat and Vest System $10.00 

Stone's New Short Measure Coat and Vest System 10.00 

Stone's Superlative System of Cutting Ladies' Garments 10.00 

Stone's Superlative Coat and Vest System 5.00 

Stone's New Superlative Trousers System, 7-00 

Stone's Superlative Trousers System 5.00 

Stone's Superlative Shirt and Drawer System 3.00 

Stone's Superlative Corset Grades, 14 sizes 3.00 

SPECIAL OFFER.— We will sell any two of our $10.00 works for $15.00 ; or the New Su- 
perlative or New Short Measure System, together with our New Superlative Trousers 
System for $15.00. 

Any of these works will be sent prepaid by return mail on receipt of price. No book will 
be sent C. O. D. Send P. O. or Express Money Order or Chicago Exchange. 

Address 

CHAS. J. STONE CO. 

194 and 196 La Salle Street CHICAGO, ILL. 




the: chas. j. stone co. ""^ "^°'^^^^'" 
cutting school ^ 

194-196 La Salle St., CHICAGO 
TKRMS FOR INSTRUCTION 

TO BE PAID IN ADVANCE 

For a complete course of Instriiolion (to Practical T;ulors) in Geutlfraen's Garment Cutting (time unlimited) $100 00 

Coat System, a'one 50 00 

Vest System, alone 25 00 

Trouser System, alone 25 00 

Capes, Hoods, Leggins and Gaiters 50 00 

Grading 50 00 

Boys and Children 100 00 

Sliirts , 15 00 

Drawers 15 00 

LADIES' CUTTINd 

For complete course of Ladies' CJarments... $100 00 

Ladies' Basques, Jackets and all Over Garments 50 00 

Ladies' Basque, Bodice, Sleeves and Skirts 25 00 

PRACTICAL CUTTERS 

Desiring to change their Systems, limited to twelve days, Coiils, Vests and Trousers $ 50 00 

Price to Cutters for Coit System, alone 30 00 

" " Trouser System, alone 15 00 

" Vest System, alone 15 00 

" " Fancy Garments, Capes, Hoods, Leggins and Over Gaiters 25 00 

PRACTICAL CUTTERS 

For special s.nd private instruction in measuring, drafting, or explaining points ia Coats, Vests, Trousers or Grading, 

Cutting by Block Patterns, or Ladies' Cutting, occupying from one hour to one day ^45 00 to $25 00 

.^EVThls is a Special Feature. 

Address, CHA5. J. STONE, Priuate Office, 

The Chas. J. Stone Co. Cutting School, CHICAQO, ILL. 



Stone's Reliable Block Patterns 



These Patterns are strictiv up-to-date in style ond outline. They are tested Patterns wtiich we tiave been using 
for years, and whicti are used by the best Tailors all over the Country. 



PATTERNS FOR MEN'S GARMENTS. 



S. B. Frock Coat, any size, each, 
S. B. Sack Coat, any size, each, . 
D B. Sack Coat, any size, each, 
D B. Frock Coat, any size, each, 
Dress Coats, any size, each, . 
S B. Over Coat, any size, each, . 
D B Over Coat, any size, each, 
Raglan Over Coat, any size, each, 
Inverness Over Coat, any size, each. 
Paletots and Paddocks, any size, each 
S B. Vests, any size, each, 
Dress Vest, any size, each, 
D B, Vest, any size, each. 
Trousers, any size, each, 
Riding Breeches, 
Riding Leggins. . 
Bicycle Pants, Plain, . 
Bicycle Pants, with Cuffs, 

Cutters' Combination Set of Patterns, Complete Outfit for $40.00. Prices of Patterns for Boys and Children 

furnished on Applicaticn. 

For Special Patterns the following measures are necessary for men's garments: 

The breast measure for Overcoats, which should be given as taken over the vest, and unless it is especially 
stated that it is taken over the coat, it will be so used. 

The measures necessary for all undercoats to order are: Length of coat, length of si 
hip and seat measures (the hip measure to be taken around the form where the waist seam 
measure is of vast importance for all skirt coats. Give height of customer and description, 
of his figu re. 

For Vest and Trousers the usual measures. 



$1 


oo 


Full Set, 


n 


Sizes 


34 '043, . 




oo 


Full Set, 


n 


Sizes 


34 to 43, 




00 


Full Set, 


n 


Sizes 


34 '0 43. • 




.2S 


Full Set, 


n 


Sizes 


34 lo 43, 




.^l 


Full Set, 


n 


Sizes 


34 '0 43. • 




SO 


Full Set, 


n 


Sizes 


34 to 43. 




so 


Full Set, 


n 


Sizes 


34 to 43, . 


2 


.oo 


Full Set, 


n 


Sizes 


34 to 43, 


2 


oo 


Full Set, 


n 


Sizes 


34 to 43, . 


2 


00 


Full Set, 


n 


Sizes 


34 to 43, 




7S 


Full Set, 


a 


Sizes 


34 to 43, . 


I 


oo 


Full Set, 


n 


Sizes 


34 to 43, 


I 


oo 


Full Set, 


n 


Sizes 


34 to 43, 




7S 


Full Set, 


n 


Sizes 


30 to 42, Wai St 


I 


.2S 


Clerical Coats, each, . 




7S 


Knight Ten- 


plar Coats, each, 




7,S 


Hoods, each, . 




I 


oo 


Capes, each 


, 





$10.00 

10.00 

10.00 

12.00 

12.00 

13.00 

13.00 

1 6. CO 

16.00 

16.00 

7.00 

8.00 

8.00 

9.00 

1.25 

1.25 
.50 

I .00 



leeve, breast, waist, 
is located). This 
concise as possible, 



PATTERNS FOR LADIES' GARMENTS. 









SIZK 


EACH 


IUI.L SET 






SIZE 


EACH 


hVlA- SET 


Basque, 




Bust 


2S-4O 


$1.00 


$10.00 


Divided Riding Skirt, . 


Waist, 20-32 


$1.50 


$10.00 


Jackets, any style. 






28-40 


I .00 


ro.oo 


Bicycle Skirts, 




20-32 


• 75 


7.50 


D. B, Reefer, 






28-40 


I .00 


10.00 


Riding Breeches, 




20-32 


• 75 


7.50 


Cutaway Coats, 






28-40 


I .00 


10.00 


Leggins, . 






• 25 


2.50 


D. B. Frock, 






28-40 


1.25 


1 2 . 00 


Caps, . 




6-7 


■50 


3.00 


D. B. Ulster, 






28 -40 


1.25 


12 .00 


Golf Capes, 




Bust, 28-40 


■ 75 


7.50 


Bicycle Coats , 






28 40 


I . 00 


10.00 


Double Capes, 




28-40 


1 .00 


ro.oo 


D. B. Vest. 






2S-4O 


■50 


5 .00 


Three-Decker Cap 


25, . 


" 28-40 


1 .00 


10.00 


Costume Skirt, 




Waist, 


20 32 


■75 


7.50 


Single Sleeves, 




2S-40 


• 50 


5.00 


Riding Skirt, 




" 


20-32 


I .50 


10.00 














All 


these 


Patterns 


Cut to 


Order, S 


ingle or in Sets, 


at Regular 


Prices. 







Measures necessary for ladies' garments: 

Length of waist and full length of garment; the underarin length from armscye to small of waist; the front 
length from center of back at neck to largest part of bust and down to waist in front. Length of sleeve should 
be taken with a square under the arrn to wrist. Take the size of sleeve at elbow and at hand. Take bust meas- 
ure easy and waist snug, and hip easy. If the garment is to button up to the neck, the size of neck must be 
given. For skirts, take front, side and back lengths and waist, also hip measure. In ordering skirt patterns, 
state what width goods is to be used, as the gores must be cut accordingly. 

All orders for Patterns must be accompanied by cash remittance of at least 50% of the amount ordered 
to receive attention. All orders executed promptly. Address 

The Chas. J. Stone Co., 

1 94- 1 96 La Salle St., Chicago. 



Tailors' Squares an^^ Measures 



We carry a Complete Line of Squares, Measures, Etc , the Best in the Market, and sell them 

at most reasonable rates. 




SQUARES 



Boxwood, 16x24, 

" 14x24, 

" 12x24, 

Maplewood, 14x24, 

" 12x24, . 

Patent Folding, Boxwood, 
Stone's Measuring Squares, brass attachment. 
Boxwood, 6x10 (folding), 
Maplewood, 6x10 (not folding), 
Sliding Arm (Glencross), 
Trousers, . • • 



Si 75 
I 50 

I 25 

I 10 

1 00 

2 75 
2 50 

I 50 
75 

I 75 
80 



(Add 25 Cents on all Squares and 



STICKS, ETC. 

5-4 Sticks, beveled and jointed, 
5-4 Sticks, beveled edge, 
Yard Sticks, beveled edge, 

" " straight edge (thin cap), . 

<i << " " (thick cap), 

24-inch Sticks, " " (bench rule), 

Curved Sticks, 
Tape Measures, finest quality, each, 

<i << good " " 

Patent Crotch Measures, 
Centimeter Measures, 
Sticks for Packing and Shipping.) 



51 5° 
70 

45 
3° 
25 
25 
35 
20 

IS 
25 
25 



In ordering Squares, be sure to state whether you want the division of srds or 4ths on 
the long arm. Send in your orders with the money, and any article ordered will be sent by 
return Jxpress. No goods sent C. O. D. unless one-half of the price accompanies the order. 

To insure safe delivery of remittance send Post Office, Money or Express Order. 

Address all orders to 

The Chas. J. Stone Co. 

194-196 La Salle Street, CHICAQO 



Cutters' and Tailors' Shears 

Wc sell the well known Heinisch Shears, Trimmers, Etc , at reasonable prices. None better 

can be obtained, the best cannot be bought cheaper. 




HEINISCH'S CELEBRATED SHEARS 



3 Full length, i 2 • 
334 Full length, 12I4' 

4 Full length, i2?<; 
4;.' Full length, 13 

6 Full length, 1334; 

7 Full length, 14 

5 Full length, 14J4 
9 Full length, i43:j^ 

lo Full length, 15J4' 



inches, japanned hantlles, $3 25 

inclies, japanned hantlles, 3 50 

inches, japanned handles, 4 25 

inches, japanned handles, 4 ^o 

inches, japanned handles, 6 50 

inches, japanned handles, 7 50 

inches, japanned handles, 8 25 

inches, japanned handles, 9 00 

inches, japanned handles, 10 00 




HEINISCHS TAILORS' POINTS 

$0 40 



Full length, 5 inclies, japanned handles, 
Full length, 5}^ inches, japanned handles, 
Fidl length, 6 inches, japanned handles. 



Nickel-plated Shears, extra, . $2 00 

Left-handed Shears, extra, $1 00 to 2 00 

Nickel-plated Trimmers, extra, . i 50 

Left-handed Trimmers, extra, . 50 




HEINISCH'S BENT TRIMIVIERS 



Full 
Full 
Full 
Full 
Full 
Full 
Full 
Full 
Full 



length, 
length, 
length, 
length, 
length, 
length, 
length, 
length, 
length. 



7 inches, japanned handles, 
73/ inches, japanned handles, 

8 inches, japanned handles, 
83^ inches, japanned handles, 

9 inches, japanned handles, 

10 inches, japanned handles, 

11 inches, japanned handles, 

12 inches, japanned handles, 

13 inches, japanned handles. 



$0 60 

65 
70 
80 
90 
I 10 

I 5° 
I 75 




BAUER'S 

PATENT REVOLVING BUTTONHOLE CUTTER 

S° curs ANY SIZE BUPTONHOLE 

60 Price, per pair, net, . . Si 75 



All orders will he promptly attended to. To insure safe delivery, send P. O. , Money or 
Express Order. Address, 

The Chas. J. Stone Co. 

194=196 La Salle Street, CHICAGO 



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